It also does wonders over mat, just kinda seals it and gives it a nice finished look. But I let it dry for several days before trying to sand it. ![]() By the time I had one complete coat on, I could start on the next. Thicker you put it on, longer it takes to dry. ![]() I put it on with a combination of brush and putty knife to smooth it. You want to leave as much as possible, otherwise defeats the purpose. You want to apply it as smooth as you can out of the gates. Typical truck bed lol beat up and better covered up. No I haven't pulled it out yet, Just lifted the edge to take a peek. ![]() But just a few pics explains things well. If I have any more relevant pics, I'll post those as well. Remember- safety first! If you're gonna be under the car, use a good jack and support the full weight on jackstands or wheel ramps with the opposite wheels chocked. I'll break out the pressure washer for the back end. I did minimal prepwork to the surface- just a dry scrub brush and Shop-Vac. As long as you mask everything off well, you have a damn effective sound deadener, and a small gap sealer as well. Put up your sheetmetal gap fillers first. I'm looking at this as a good alternative to the inner door skin problem. And I'd do 3 coats in an area, starting in the farthest corner and working my way back to the access point- you don't want to paint yourself in a corner, or have to step on fresh product! The price incudes the EASE of installation, but I'd budget 2 full days to let it dry hard if you want an interior application. There are also some voids in the trunk that are straight up outer sheetmetal panels. I used just a bit less than a quart for three good coats, so I have enough for the other front fender, as well as the underside around the spare tire area. The thing I noticed the most was a reduction in tire slap noise when going over expansion joints. I also didn't go too far aft and outwards. I didn't go too far forward, and I only had so much sheetmetal in the fender arch and along the frame. I tried to get the gun as far towards the centerline as possible, and managed to get a bit of coverage around the footwell area. If ya'll wanna see that, let me know and I'll post it up. It flashed over in about an hour, and while that was going on, I was finishing up my Big 3 wiring. It never stained my hands, and the smell was quite a minor issue- barely noticable. Cleanup was easy- easier than a latex paint, regardless of the dark color of the Spectrum. I was worried the compressor wouldn't be able to keep up, but it did. Re: Second Skin Spectrum = Da Shiznit! (PT 3) ![]() Probably 90% of the product is in that circle. The pattern is a rough circle about 3 inches across when the gun is about 8 inches away. The car already had a bit of factory undercoating on it, but not near enough for me. As it dries, it gets a darker milky grey and then gets a medium flat black. grey in the can, but shoots a blueish-grey. Then I started at the top, trying to get the coating up into the strut tower mounting area. I put lots of cardboard down under the car, but overspray was astonishingly minimal. Then I masked off the strut, wheel hub, brake line and around the fender. I pulled the nose of the car into the garage so I could have some shade, and pulled off the fender liner. The gun came from Ebay and included 2 quart jugs with lids. The hose is a nice Kobalt (Lowes house brand) 25 ft. I choked it down a bit to 80 PSI the regulator. This review will show the equipment I used, the application process and my thoughts on it's effectiveness.įirst, I used this little compressor I have. He posted a good deal about having some leftover so I got it. This is a review about Second Skin Spectrum.
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